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Day 3: Madison, WI to Savage, MN

  • May. 15th, 2008 at 10:14 AM
tattoo, compass rose
We left Madison early in the morning, getting caught up in the swell of rush hour before we managed to find relief on a country road moving far away from the city.

The drive made my throat ache. There's something about Wisconsin - related, I'm sure, to the fact that my mother was raised here, and how she talks about her childhood - that makes this land so incredibly beautiful to me.

We were heading toward Spring Green, where the House on the Rock was waiting for us.

House on the Rock is this bizarrely awesome tourist attraction set dead in the middle of nowhere, Wisconsin. How it came to be is a sort of long, convoluted tale, but the short version is this: an eccentric man named Alex Jordon built a house in a mountain and collected things, and now, almost fifty years later, it's probably one of the coolest and most random places in the United States.

As we drove to HotR, I was practically bouncing out of my seat. Errol looked somewhat bemused every time we passed a billboard and I squealed.

We stopped a few time to take pictures - the morning overcast clouds had gone away and the sky was blue and filled with fat clouds - and I took shots of the road and the fields and the sky and barns and occasionally cows and trees and windmills. I got a shot of the Don Q Inn, where my mother used to work years and years ago. Every so often we would pass something that I recognized, and it felt like Christmas.









Around nine, we arrived at HotR. I practically skipped to the door. We bought our tickets for the complete, deluxe tour. I crossed my fingers that it was as excellent as I remember, and that Errol would like it.

Needless to say, it ROCKED SO HARD. I think what I like so much is how it feeds my love of stuff and details and pretty things and little niches and crevices and houses with lots and lots of things and rooms and decoration. There was so much stained glass and stone and hand carved wood and art and so many Tiffany lamps and antique books and random, random collectibles (crown jewels, weapons, circus figurines, doll houses, carousels, miniature ships, turn of the century bric-a-brac, calliopes, self-playing musical machines and I could go on and on and on. We just wandered around with our jaws hanging open. It took us four hours to get through the whole thing (with time for a stop for some surprisingly excellent pizza), but it was entirely, totally worth it. (Interesting side note: Part of Neil Gaimon's American Gods is set in The House on the Rock.)









Back out on Route 23, we headed back in the direction of Dodgeville and then toward Highland, where we stopped at The Summer Kitchen to see Mr. Shroeder. He's ninety years old and spry as ever. We chatted about my life and journey, and he introduced to his new puppy (a friendly lab named Echo).



From the Summer Kitchen, we headed toward Minnesota. It took us a great deal longer than we anticipated, partially because we hit some traffic along La Crosse, and partially because we kept stopping to take pictures ("WE HAVE TO STOP THERE ARE COWS!"). After La Crosse, we crossed over the Mississippi River ("TOWANDAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!") and headed toward Savage.

We are officially in The West.



We spent the night at my aunt and uncle's house and got to see my cousin Vanessa and her son. It was kind of weird, though - my aunt reminds me A LOT of my mom (similar voice, mannerisms, etc.), and it made me miss home a bit. But I got lots and lots of sleep last night and now I'm all refreshed and getting on the road in about six minutes.

Love you all! Take care. Next update will be from Middle of Nowhere, South Dakota.

Comments

[info]tamnonlinear wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 04:22 pm (UTC)
("WE HAVE TO STOP THERE ARE COWS!")

This sounds like a good road trip.
[info]bifemmefatale wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 04:42 pm (UTC)
I love the carousel pic. Now I wanna go to the HotR. As many times as I've been around there, I should have gone already.
[info]ying_ko_4 wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 04:55 pm (UTC)
I've been to some of these places. Your views and photo's brought back some fine memories.

I see cows everyday, so you stopping because there WERE cows made me laugh.
[info]qadesh wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 05:15 pm (UTC)
I freaking love the House on the Rock. I want to go back there so bad.
[info]krsnas_favorite wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 06:01 pm (UTC)
I'm loving your photos, btw.
[info]goosechecka wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 06:18 pm (UTC)
I'm sorry, I gotta say it. I can't let something like that rest. Just because you cross the Mississippi does not mean you are in The West. You are, indeed, west of the Mississippi, but The West, The Wild West, the Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid West, the Doc Holliday West, the Cowboys and Indians, How the West was Won West... that's still farther, well, west.

Please don't lump the Great Western States of OR, WA, CA, NV, UT, CO, AZ, NM and yes, even TX with them. The Midwest and The West are very, VERY different.

(No offense to places like Montana, Idaho and Wyonming. You're just not exactlt what we call "wild west" material, ya' know?)
[info]dimethirwen wrote:
May. 16th, 2008 01:48 am (UTC)
To clarify: I am covering the ENTIRE LENGTH of the United States by car. I crossed over the Mississippi River - the second longest river in the United States, and the very famous dividing line between eastern and western United States - and was quite happy that I'd passed from east to west.

We have different emotional connections to this space - you have your fiercely competitive local pride, and I'm very excited at this significant milestone in my journey.
[info]kalbelgarion wrote:
May. 16th, 2008 01:33 pm (UTC)
I hear that. I know how I'd feel if someone were lumping, say, Ohio in with the east. It's bad enough we're stuck with New Jersey.

Poor mid-west. No one wants them. Not quite the west, not quite the east. They're just taking up space, making the trip from the east coast to the west that much longer.
[info]bifemmefatale wrote:
May. 16th, 2008 01:58 pm (UTC)
What always baffles me is that IL and OK are both considered the Midwest when they're nothing alike.

Edited at 2008-05-16 01:59 pm (UTC)
[info]driftingfocus wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 06:58 pm (UTC)
You're making me nostalgic about my roadtrips.
[info]violet_ivory wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 07:31 pm (UTC)
The House on the Rock! I want to go there!

Beautiful pictures! Thanks for sharing them. :)
(Anonymous) wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 11:11 pm (UTC)
my dearest honey baby
How I miss you already! Knowing that you are seeing my mother, siblings and Wisconsin is making me cry (a happy cry)! All while you were growing up, I was hoping that you would/could feel the wonder of growing up on a farm living in the country, loving my parents and siblings (even though sometimes it is hard to love siblings). I was not sure if that was passed over to you since we only saw my family once a year. I am so glad you made a part of me a part of you by adding Wisconsin to your trip. I am living daily for your blogs to know you are OK, so keep blogging. Give my love to Errol for accompaning you on this adventure and releiving us that you are not alone. Please take a breath once in a while and give him a break, after all he is a man. Love MOM
[info]crazykawaii wrote:
May. 15th, 2008 11:35 pm (UTC)
I have wanted to go see House on the Rock since I read American Gods! Oh, I am jealous of you (as always!)

PS - your new home just legalized same sex marriage, if you didn't hear. I'm even MORE jealous now!
[info]mcity wrote:
May. 16th, 2008 03:31 am (UTC)
The first few remind me of the opening of "the Stand". If you're ever there again and you head "don't fear the reaper", RUN.
[info]marnanel wrote:
May. 16th, 2008 10:58 am (UTC)
I only just saw you in the mirror there!
(Anonymous) wrote:
May. 16th, 2008 09:40 pm (UTC)
Awesome!!
Glad to hear y'all are making good progress! Maybe I'll get to meet up with youse guys when you hit Vegas!

Errols' friend Tony from DC